George Davies Turf

General Advice
01234 714 555
01727 821 765

Turf Care

Here at George Davies Turf, we pride ourselves on providing the best after-care service we can possibly provide. So, this is why we’ve created this quite extensive list on intricate methods and techniques you can apply to keep your turf looking and feeling brand new. Even if your lawn isn’t brand new, and you’re looking for prudent ways to maintain and look after it – this list is for you also.

One of the key things to remember with your new lawn is that it’s a collective of live plants that will need the right balance of water, sunlight and food to nurture and essentially survive. However, if you follow the points as listed out below, this should set you on your way so your lawn can thrive in its new environment. For any further advice on lawn maintenance or general questions on its upkeep, give us a call to discuss – 01234 714 555 or 01727 821 765.

  • Mowing

    • Mow regularly and as often as necessary to maintain a neat appearance. The closer you cut, the more often you should mow.
    • For most lawns the mower should be set to cut no lower than 1/2" and should be used at least once a week, depending on growth. Try to avoid leaving the lawn unmown for periods of weeks when the grass is growing fast.
    • When reducing the height of cut, never remove more than 25% of the length of the grass. A cylinder mower will give the best results, provided it is kept sharp and the blades are set to cut the grass efficiently.
    • It is best to mow when the grass is dry, but in prolonged wet weather mow when it is wet rather than let the grass grow too tall.
    • Mow in winter if mild periods have encouraged growth.
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    • Rolling should not be necessary on most soils.
    • A roller should never be used to put right surface irregularities, possibly caused by subsidence. These should be corrected using compost top dressing.
  • Feeding

    • Lawns growing on poor soils need more feeding than those on rich soils.
    • Feed your lawn each spring and, if necessary, through the summer with a proprietary lawn fertilizer at the recommended rate. A phased release fertilizer, as suggested, will slowly release essential nutrients to produce and maintain the green colour for months.
    • If you need to feed after August use a proprietary autumn lawn fertilizer at the recommended rate.
    • Do not feed your lawn between October and March until frost-free conditions prevail.


    • On an established lawn, watering is only necessary if you need to maintain a green colour. Established turf will not die if you do not water it, unless your lawn is on thin or sandy soil.
    • If you intend to water the lawn, it should be done infrequently and deeply. Water the soil until it is moist to a depth of 6". If the water runs off the surface before this depth of moist soil is achieved, switch off the hosepipe or water another part of the garden before resuming. Water again when the soil dries out to this depth.
    • A light shower of rain may not soak through to the soil and may have to be added to by watering.
  • Weeding

    • It is inevitable that weeds appear from time to time in the new lawn, spreading from other parts of the garden or from further afield. Remove these by hand when seen.
    • Ready for use sprays can also be used for spot treatment of weeds or for more widespread invasions the whole lawn may be treated with a recommended liquid weedkiller.
    • Make sure that the weeds you want to control are specified by the weedkiller you choose.
    • Always buy a proprietary brand of weedkiller and follow the manufacturers instructions carefully.
    • If you use a weed and feed product, check the instuctions in case there are any special recommendations for freshly laid turf.
  • Moss

    • Moss will develop in a lawn only if the grass is too weak to compete with it. The reasoning for the weakening of the grass may be waterlogging, compacted soil, mowing too close or too frequently, inadequate feeding or very dry conditions. The cause should be identified and corrected.
    • For short term control various chemical treatments are available, but moss will reinvade if the grass is not invigorated.
    • Some people like moss in a lawn!
  • Scarifying

    • The removal of the brown fibrous "thatch" layer which develops between the soil and the grass shoots is not always necessary. Only if the dead material is more than 3/4" thick should any attempt be made to remove it.
    • Scarifying can be beneficial to a lawn if undertaken correctly. It can also be very harmful should you over scarify.
    • Some types of turf need less scarifying than others.
    • Light raking by hand to raise horizontal shoots is worthwhile from time to time in the mowing season.
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  • Aerating

    • Using a garden fork or a special spiking tool relieves compaction and helps surface water to drain away. It also allows more air to reach the roots of the grass, which aids healthy growth.
    • Make sure the holes are at least 3" deep - the deeper the better. On very heavy clay soils a hollow tining tool may be used to remove cores of soil and a sandy top dressing brushed in.
    • Autumn is the usual time for this operation.

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